Guide to Canal Saint-Martin, Paris

The most convenient metro stop is République, which serves lines 3, 5, 8, 9 and 11—so you can keep going and reach Châtelet, Opéra, or Invalides—or you can take the 5 to the closer Jacques Bonsergent station. From Charles de Gaulle, it’s a little under an hour by taxi or ride-share €45 ($50), or by RER B connecting to line 5 (€11.45 or about $12.50). Once you’re in Canal Saint-Martin, it’s a quick walk to other neighborhoods like Le Marais or Oberkampf.

From Canal Saint-Martin, you can walk under the shaded banks to La Villette or Buttes-Chaumont parks. The series of cast-iron footbridges add to the area’s charm and make for the perfect post to watch the barges cruising the canal underneath. Even though the neighborhood has rapidly developed over the last decade or so, it hasn’t lost its shabby-chic feel, which you can see in the hodgepodge of bars, restaurants, and boutiques lining either side of the water. A living movie scene, everything from the bridges to the Hôtel du Nord – immortalized in the 1938 film of the same name – have served as sets. This is a spot Parisians go when they want a low-key, local feel – meaning you’re not going to find as many tourists as other parts of town.

Holybelly has remained the best brunch spot in town—come early, you’ll be in line for a bit. For baked goods, make your way to artisan boulangerie Du Pain & des Idées. A top spot for vegan cuisine, Sol Semilla serves organic, vegan, and gluten-free fare, or visit Radiodays Café for specialty coffee and Lebanese flatbreads.

El Nopal is one of the top for tacos that stream from its tiny, takeaway restaurant, while Miznon has an outpost of its Israeli street food concept with tables inside and on the terrace – or you can take it to go and picnic along the canal. Le Cambodge dates back nearly 40 years, to when the parents of the current owners took over an old boutique and served simple, canteen-style Asian fare – which has been expanded since to include a slew of different bobuns, curries, and dumplings.

The neighborhood is known for a few tried-and-true staples that never lose their luster. In the evening, design-savvy Gravity Bar is a good choice for wine and craft cocktails, while the expansive Le Comptoir Général, with its centerpiece pirate ship, is one of the most happening bars and clubs in town. The terrace at red-canopied Chez Prune is one of these spots. The banquette-lined café is a favorite for lunch specials of classic French fare (grilled beef bathed in Roquefort sauce, pan-fried fish in beurre blanc), and the atmosphere changes in the late afternoon and evening, as the after-work crowd gathers for apéro before dinner or a night out in the neighborhood. Le Verre Volé is one of the original natural wine hot spots in the city and features more than 400 different wines, which you can also purchase to-go from the cave.

Le Centre Commercial is a concept shop for clothing with of-the-moment – or soon-to-be superstar – designers like Róhe and Common Projects from the founders of sustainable sneaker Veja, which you’ll find here as well. For designer vintage, Thanx God I’m a V.I.P. is definitely one of the better options in Paris. Neatly organized racks display designers like Chanel and Versace from the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s. You won’t find large designer boutiques in this area, but there are a handful of French fashion brands like agnès b. and A.P.C. DIY-inspired Make My Lemonade is home to limited-edition items designed to appeal to all body types and sizes, while bookshop-meets-gallery Artazart showcases exhibitions and sells signed books and illustrations.

In the surrounding area, travelers can book a room with a well-known brand like Holiday Inn or ibis near Gare de l’Est, but if you want to be right on the water, you can’t get much closer than 12-room, boutique Le Citizen Hotel, where you can sleep with views over the canal. For something more upscale, book one of the 18 eccentric rooms at Hôtel Providence, which range from palm tree-wallpapered suites to bohemian-patterned room that feels plucked from a Moroccan souk.

The area is better for younger travelers, groups of friends, and young couples. There is still some grit to it, so don’t expect an area as manicured as Le Marais. Since the area fills up with twenty- and thirty-somethings holding court along the canal, the energy may be less appealing to families or those with young kids.